Curly hair on men is a gift that most guys fight for years. The curl pattern gives you volume, texture and a natural shape, and it only looks messy when the cut ignores it. The right cut works with the curl instead of against it.
The best cuts for curly hair men are a scissor cut with length on top and a tapered or faded side, which keeps the curls full and the edges neat. Ask for the sides short and blended, the top three to four inches, and no thinning that makes the curls frizz. Get it trimmed every four to six weeks.
What makes a cut work for curly hair?
A good curly cut respects the curl pattern and removes weight where it fights the shape. The mistake is cutting curls dry and flat, so the barber cannot see how they spring. The curls shrink as they dry, and a cut that looks right wet can be much shorter than expected.
Length on top is what shows the curl. Too short and it turns into a fuzzy cap. Too long and it grows out into a triangle, wider at the bottom than the top. The balance is about three to four inches on top with the sides cut closer, which keeps the head shape tidy and the curl visible.
Tell your barber your curl type, whether it is loose waves, springy curls or tight coils, and how it behaves when it dries. That one sentence changes the way the scissors are used.
Cuts that suit curly hair
The most reliable options combine a tapered or faded side with curls on top. They keep the shape and make styling easy.
| Cut | Sides | Top | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Curly top with low taper | Low taper, number 1 to 2 at the bottom | 3 to 4 inches, scissor cut | Office days, softer look |
| Curly top with mid fade | Mid fade to skin or number 1 | 3 to 5 inches | Strong shape, more contrast |
| Burst fade | Curves around the ear | Full curls, longer back | Casual, bold |
| Classic scissor cut | Tapered by scissor | Natural, side part or push back | Traditional, low maintenance |
For the taper options, read our guide to the low taper on curly hair. For a more dramatic shape around the ear, see the burst fade for curly hair.
How do you ask your barber for it?
Describe the sides first, then the top, then how you want to wear it. Say “mid taper on the sides, number 2 at the bottom, leave three to four inches on top and cut it for the curl.” Specific beats poetic.
Do not ask for the top to be thinned or razored unless you want frizz. Curls need their weight to hold a shape. Ask the barber to cut with scissors so the length is controlled. Our classic scissor cut is $35 and works well on curls because the barber can follow the pattern.
If you want a fade, a fade haircut is also $35, with a hot towel neck finish included. Tell us how often you plan to come in, so we can set the contrast to match.
Everyday care for curls
Keep it simple: wash two or three times a week, condition every time, and let the curls dry without rubbing. Washing every day strips the oils and leaves curls dry and frizzy.
Use a sulfate free shampoo if your hair runs dry, and apply conditioner from mid length to the ends. Squeeze water out with a towel or a cotton shirt instead of rubbing. Add a curl cream or a light leave in product on damp hair and shake it through with your fingers. Do not brush dry curls, since a brush breaks the clump and creates frizz.
Before a haircut, clean hair is useful but not essential. We answer that in should you wash your hair before a haircut.
Styling thick curls and slicking them back
Thick curls need a product with hold and a cut that removes bulk at the sides. Slicking curls back works best when they are three to four inches long and damp, with a light gel or cream applied first.
For a slick back, comb the curls back with your fingers, then use a wide tooth comb. Do not use a fine comb, which tears the curl. A little water on the hands keeps flyaways down. A looser, wavy slick back reads as polished in an office, and a tight one with a high fade reads sharper and sportier.
Thick hair also benefits from a regular taper, which keeps the sides from puffing out. Lighter products work better on fine curls, while thick curls tolerate cream or paste.
Growing curly hair out, and the baldness question
Expect an awkward stage between three and six months. The sides puff out before the top reaches length, so keep tapering them. Our flow haircut guide covers growing it out without the awkward phase.
On baldness, there is no solid evidence that curly hair makes you go bald faster. Hair loss in men is mostly driven by genetics and hormones, so look at your family history instead. If you notice sudden or patchy thinning, see a doctor.
Curly hair can hide thinning at the front and crown better than straight hair, since the curls add volume. Gray also curls differently. If you are blending it, see gray blending for men. If you have a beard with the curls, the same texture can make the skin underneath itchy, and why a beard gets itchy explains the fix.
What is trending for curls right now?
The trend is natural curls with a clean taper, a bit longer on top and no attempt to force them straight. Textured, relaxed and slightly messy shapes beat sculpted ones.
Ask for texture rather than sharpness: soft tapers, longer fringe and a curl you can style in a minute. For the wider picture, see trendy haircuts for men. If you want a color touch, men’s hair color at $55 lifts curls with a bit of tone, and you can read about it on our men’s hair color service.
Book your curly cut at Deja Vu
Deja Vu Barbershop is at 101 E 34th St, New York, NY 10016, between Park Avenue and Lexington Avenue in Murray Hill. A fade haircut and a classic scissor cut are each $35, and every haircut ends with a hot towel neck finish. Our barbers are New York State licensed, with 15+ years of experience on the team.
We are open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm and Sunday 10am to 5pm, closed Saturday. Book online or just walk in. Call (212) 576-1062. If you want to grow it out, start with the flow haircut plan and come in every four to six weeks.
Questions readers ask
How do I take care of curly hair as a man?
Wash two or three times a week, condition each time and dry it without rubbing. Add a light curl cream on damp hair and avoid brushing it dry.
How do I grow out curly hair?
Plan on three to six months, and keep the sides tapered during the awkward stage. Trim the ends lightly every six to eight weeks so it grows out in a shape.
How do I slick back curly hair?
Start with damp hair and a little cream or light gel. Comb it back with your fingers, then a wide tooth comb, and let it dry.
Do men with curly hair go bald faster?
Not as far as we know. Male pattern hair loss is mainly about genetics and hormones, so family history matters more than curl type.
How do I style thick curly hair?
Take weight off the sides with a taper, then use a cream or paste on damp curls. Thick curls hold better with product that has some hold.