Curls and fades are a natural pair. The fade clears the sides, the curls stack up on top, and the contrast between them does the styling for you. The only decision is which fade, and that depends on how much shape you want around the ear.
Burst fade curly hair is a fade that curves around the ear in a half circle and leaves the back longer, while a mid fade starts halfway up the head and a drop fade curves down behind the ear. Ask for the fade that matches the amount of drama you want, with three to four inches of curl on top.
Burst fade curly hair
A burst fade curves the fade around the ear in a semicircle, so the shortest hair sits right above and behind the ear and the back keeps its length. On curls it frames the top and gives the cut a distinct shape.
It suits men with a good amount of curl on top and a natural taper at the nape. The look is bold and a little casual. It reads best on loose to medium curls, where the length at the back flows with the top. Tighter coils also work, and the back can be kept shorter for a more compact shape.
To ask for it, say “burst fade around the ears, skin or number 1 at the bottom, curls on top, back left longer.” If you want the full guide to how this fade compares with its cousins, our post on the types of fade haircut covers the whole range.
Mid fade curly hair
A mid fade starts about halfway up the sides of the head, roughly level with the top of the ear, and blends down to skin or a number 1. It is the balanced choice for curls: visible but not extreme.
It works in nearly every setting. The fade shows enough contrast to look sharp, and the curls on top stay free. It suits round and oval faces, since the sides narrow the face and the top adds height. For men with thick curls, the mid fade removes the side bulk that makes curls look wide.
The mid fade is also the easiest to grow out, because the blend sits at a middle height and stays tidy for about three weeks. Our mid taper fade article explains why this height is so popular in Manhattan, and the same logic carries over to curls.
Drop fade curly hair
A drop fade follows the curve of the head and drops down behind the ear, so the fade line dips toward the neck at the back. It gives curls a sculpted outline.
The drop is a good fit for tight curls and coils, where the contrast between the closely cut sides and the dense top makes the shape stand out. It also hides a flat back of the head by adding visual curve. See our drop fade guide for more detail on how it is cut and who it suits.
Tell your barber how low you want the drop to go. A subtle drop is a cleaner office option. A deeper drop, ending near the nape, is the more stylized choice.
How to ask for each fade
Name the fade, say where it should start and give a guard number for the bottom. That is all your barber needs, plus the length you want on top.
| Fade | Where it starts | What to say | Best curl type |
|---|---|---|---|
| Burst | Around the ear, curving back | Burst fade, skin at the bottom, leave the back | Loose to medium curls |
| Mid | Level with the top of the ear | Mid fade, number 1 at the bottom | All curl types |
| Drop | Dips down behind the ear | Drop fade, blended low at the nape | Tight curls and coils |
| Low | Just above the ear | Low fade, number 1 at the bottom | Office days, subtle |
If you want something even softer than a fade, read about the low taper for curly hair. For a close cropped version, buzz cut fade ideas shows the other end of the range.
How do you style curls on top of a fade?
Use a light curl cream on damp hair, shake the curls with your fingers and leave them alone while they dry. A sponge or twist can add definition on tight coils. Skip heavy gel unless you want a wet look.
For a cleaner finish, brush the curls up and forward with a soft brush while the hair is damp. A tiny amount of oil on the hands keeps the curls shiny and stops frizz. Because the sides are short, the top is the only thing you are managing, which makes the morning routine about two minutes.
Wash two or three times a week and keep the curls moist with conditioner. Dry curls frizz, and no fade can hide that.
How often to touch up a curly fade
Every two to three weeks for a skin fade and every three to four weeks for a fade that ends at a number 1 or 2. Curls hide length on top, but the sides show growth quickly.
The fade loses its edge before the top needs a trim, so many clients come in between full cuts for a fade haircut refresh. A line up at $18 keeps the hairline and temples crisp. If you also wear a beard, the Classic Combo of a fade and beard is $48, one of our barber packages, and keeps both in sync.
Book a curly fade at Deja Vu
Deja Vu Barbershop is at 101 E 34th St, New York, NY 10016, between Park Avenue and Lexington Avenue in Murray Hill. A fade haircut is $35 with a hot towel neck finish included, and our barbers are New York State licensed with 15+ years of experience on the team.
We are open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm and Sunday 10am to 5pm, closed Saturday. Walk ins are always welcome, and you can book online. Call (212) 576-1062. For the full menu of fades before your visit, read types of fade haircut, then pick the one that fits your curls.
Questions readers ask
How do I style a burst fade?
Use a light cream or paste on the top, shape it with your fingers and let it dry. The burst around the ear does the work, so keep the top relaxed.
Can you have a burst fade in the military?
Rules differ by branch and change over time, so check the current grooming standard first. A burst fade is a stylized shape, and many services prefer a uniform taper.
How do I ask for a burst fade?
Say you want a burst fade around the ears with the bottom at skin or a number 1, curls left on top and the back kept longer. A photo helps.
Will a fade make my curls look smaller?
No, it makes them look more defined. The short sides give the curls room, so the top stands out.
Which fade is easiest to maintain with curls?
The mid fade, because the blend sits at a middle height and grows out evenly. A low fade is the other easy option.