A burst fade is a fade that curves in a half circle around the ear, with short hair at the sides and a longer section left at the back and top. Pair it with a mullet and you get a cut that is short on the sides, business up top, and a controlled tail at the nape. It is a bold look, and in Midtown it is the one clients ask about most when they are tired of the same fade.
The direct answer: a burst fade mullet is a burst fade on the sides with the back left long and the top kept short to medium. Ask for a burst fade at a low or mid height, a back length you can live with, and a clean neckline or a deliberate tail. Below is how the mullet, the design and the mohawk versions each work, and how to wear them without losing the office.
What is a burst fade?
A burst fade is a fade that starts at the temple, curves around the back of the ear and fades down toward the neck, leaving the hair at the back and top longer. The name comes from the way the length seems to burst out behind the ear.
The cut differs from a regular fade in one way: the fade follows the curve of the ear instead of running in a straight line around the head. That curve leaves a rounded area of length at the back, which makes the burst the best fade for anyone who wants to keep the back of the head long. It also makes the cut feel more deliberate, which is why it looks good on mullets, curls and longer tops.
| Fade | Shape around the ear | What happens at the back |
|---|---|---|
| Low fade | Straight, low line | Back is short, same as sides |
| Drop fade | Dips behind the ear | Back is short, curved line |
| Burst fade | Half circle around the ear | Back stays long |
| Skin fade | Any line, down to skin | Depends on the base cut |
The full list of shapes, including drop and burst, is in our types of fade haircuts guide. All of them fit inside the fade haircut, which is $35 at Deja Vu Barbershop, with a hot towel neck finish included.
What is a burst fade mullet?
A burst fade mullet combines a burst fade on the sides with a mullet shape, meaning short on the front and sides and longer at the back. The burst gives the sides a clean curve, and the mullet gives the back its length.
The modern version is far from the old joke. It is cleaner and shorter, with a textured top, a tight burst and a tail that sits above the collar. That makes it wearable for most jobs and most faces. It works best on straight and wavy hair, and curly hair gives it extra shape.
The key choices are the back length and the top. Most clients ask for a tail that touches the collar or sits just above it, and a top that is about two to three inches, textured. If you want to see the other versions, our guide to the low taper mullet covers the more conservative option, and the mini mullet haircut guide shows the shorter, subtler version that many office clients prefer.
How to ask for it
- “Burst fade on the sides, low or mid height.”
- “Leave the back long, to the collar.”
- “Top two to three inches, textured, scissor cut.”
- “Clean up the neckline around the tail.”
What does a burst fade design look like?
In a burst fade design, the shape of the burst and the part or hairline become the focus, with a curve around the ear, a crisp edge and sometimes a hard part. It is about line and shape, not pictures.
The barber controls three things: how high the burst starts, how wide the curve is, and how sharp the edges are. A low, narrow burst looks subtle. A high, wide burst looks dramatic. The hairline can be squared or rounded, and a defined part adds contrast. Ask your barber what they would recommend for your head shape, since the same burst can look very different on a round head than on a long one.
If the design you want is a sharper hairline, a line up and edge up is $18 at the shop and gives the forehead and temples a clean frame. A burst on top of a taper is covered in high, burst, medium and skin taper ideas, which is a useful companion read.
For curly hair, the burst has its own guide: see fade curly hair with burst, mid and drop ideas. The shape holds curls neatly behind the ear and avoids the flare that a straight fade can create.
What is a burst fade mohawk?
A burst fade mohawk keeps a strip of longer hair down the center of the head, from front to back, with the sides faded in a burst. Unlike the old punk mohawk, the modern version is short, textured and neat.
The strip is usually one to two inches wide and two to three inches long at the front, sweeping back or up with product. The burst sits beside it and frames it, so the sides look clean and the top looks deliberate. It is also called a faux hawk or fohawk when the strip is softer and less defined. The cut works best on thicker hair, since fine hair can look thin in a narrow strip.
Wear it with product, but not too much. A small amount of paste works through the center strip and keeps it textured. If you want it sleek, a light cream will do. At the office, keep the top flatter and the sides a little longer, so the cut reads as sharp rather than loud.
Who suits it: oval and long faces carry a hawk best, since it adds width at the top. Round faces look better with a higher burst and a taller strip. The cut also leans on a good neckline, and a clean tapered back stops it from looking unfinished.
How do you keep a burst fade sharp?
Plan on a visit every two to three weeks, since the burst loses its shape as soon as the sides and back start to grow out. Between visits, keep the tail tidy and the neckline clean.
The sides grow back first, and the curved line behind the ear softens within a week or two. A line up and edge up is $18 for a quick refresh, and a full fade haircut is $35. Many clients alternate between the two, and the Sharp Edge package, line up plus beard, is $30 if you also keep a beard.
At home, wash the hair as usual and style the top with a small amount of paste or sea salt spray. Do not trim the tail yourself, since a crooked line is hard to fix. If you want a more blended, less contrasty cut, the high top fade is a different direction from the same fade family, and our guide to the textured crop taper fade shows the quieter side of this territory.
How the cut changes as it grows
Week one is the sharpest, week two is clean, week three starts to look soft and by week four the burst has lost its curve. If the tail starts to look scruffy, book a trim early rather than waiting for the sides to catch up.
Get a burst fade in Murray Hill
Deja Vu Barbershop is at 101 E 34th St, New York, NY 10016, between Park Avenue and Lexington Avenue in Murray Hill. Call (212) 576-1062. We are open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm and Sunday 10am to 5pm, closed Saturday. Walk ins are always welcome, and you can book online or contact the shop.
A fade haircut is $35 with the hot towel neck finish, a line up and edge up is $18, and the Classic Combo, fade plus beard, is $48. We serve Murray Hill, Kips Bay, Midtown East, Gramercy, NoMad and Turtle Bay, and the 6 train at 33rd Street and Park Avenue is about two minutes away. For the full range of shapes, see types of fade haircuts or our fade haircuts service.
Questions readers ask
Is a burst fade the same as a drop fade?
No. A drop fade dips behind the ear and keeps the back short, while a burst fade curves around the ear and leaves the back long.
Can I get a burst fade with a beard?
Yes. Add a beard trim and grooming for $18, or take the Classic Combo, fade plus beard, for $48.
Does a burst fade work on straight hair?
Yes, especially with a textured top. The curve behind the ear shows clearly on straight hair, so ask for a clean line.
How long does the tail need to be?
Most clients leave it to the collar or a little above. Tell your barber how long you want it and they will cut in stages.