How to style an undercut with taper fade comes down to two things: a clean transition on the sides and enough length on top to actually style. Get those right and the cut takes two minutes in the morning and holds up through a full day of meetings in Midtown.
The direct answer: ask for the sides tapered down the neckline and around the ears, leave the top long enough to move, and style it with a small amount of matte product pushed back or to the side while the hair is damp. Here is the whole process, including what to say in the chair, how to try a low taper yourself and what to expect when it grows out.
How to style an undercut with a taper fade
Start with towel dried hair, work in a pea sized amount of matte paste or clay, blow dry the top upward and back, then finish with your fingers. The tapered sides do not need product at all.
- Wash and towel dry. Leave the hair damp, not dripping.
- Rub a pea sized amount of paste or clay between your palms so it warms and spreads thin.
- Work it from the back of the top section toward the front, and keep it off the tapered sides.
- Dry with a blow dryer on medium, lifting the hair away from the scalp with your fingers or a brush.
- Shape the front with your fingertips. Push it back for a clean look or sweep it to one side for a softer one.
- Check the sides in the mirror. A good taper needs nothing more than a comb.
Thick, straight hair holds a slicked back style best, while wavy hair looks better with texture and a little volume. Fine hair needs even less product, or the top flattens by lunch.
What makes this an undercut with a taper
An undercut means the sides and back are cut much shorter than the top, and a taper means that short length gradually gets shorter toward the neckline and ears. Put them together and you get length on top with a soft transition below.
The difference from a fade is mostly how low and how short the shortest part goes. A taper ends at a short guard length, while a fade often goes down to skin. We broke that down in our guide on taper versus fade, and it is worth reading before you walk in, because the two words get mixed up in many barbershops.
A disconnected version removes the blend between the long top and the short sides completely. A taper keeps the blend, which is why it works better for an office, where a sharp contrast may look more aggressive than you want.
What to say to your barber
Say how short you want the sides, where you want the taper to start, and how much length stays on top. Numbers help, and photos help even more.
| Part of the head | Ask for | Guard or term |
|---|---|---|
| Sides, shortest point | Short but not skin | Number 1 or 2 guard |
| Neckline and ears | Tapered down, natural | Low taper |
| Sides, upper part | Blended into the top | Number 3 or 4 guard fading up |
| Top | Enough to style, scissor cut | About 2 to 4 inches |
| Edges | Clean line around the hairline | Line up |
If you want skin at the very bottom, say skin fade instead of taper, and we will take the sides down to skin. A fade haircut at Deja Vu is $35 for low, mid, high or skin, and the hot towel finish at the neck is included. You can see the options on our fade haircuts page.
Who suits an undercut with a taper, and which version to pick
Most men with enough hair on top to style can wear it. The variations mostly change how the top sits.
Textured fringe on top
If you want the top pushed forward and broken up, read about the low taper fade with a textured fringe. It suits oval and square faces well and softens a strong forehead.
Middle part
A center part with a low taper has a relaxed, current look that fits longer hair and round faces, because the lift at the part adds height. Our guide to the low taper with a middle part covers it.
Longer back
If you like a bit of length at the nape, the low taper mullet keeps the back longer while the sides stay tidy.
With a beard
A taper meets a beard cleanly. If you wear one, a blend from sideburn into beard looks sharp, as covered in how a faded beard works.
How to give yourself a low taper at home
It is possible with clippers and a steady hand, but it is the hardest cut to do on your own, because you cannot see the back. Treat it as a way to hold the cut between visits, not as a replacement for the chair.
- Start with a number 4 guard on the sides, moving up from the ear in small sweeps.
- Switch to a number 3 below the temple, then a number 2 near the ear and neckline, always flicking the clippers away from the head at the end of each pass.
- Use a number 1 only along the bottom edge of the neckline.
- Brush the hair with a comb to find any steps in the blend, and go over them lightly with the next shorter guard.
- Leave the back to a barber if you can. A hand mirror helps, but it is easy to leave a ledge.
If it goes wrong, do not panic and do not buzz everything off. Book a visit and let a barber blend it back. A clean line up is only $18 and often fixes the worst of a home attempt.
How long the cut lasts and how to maintain it
Plan on a touch up every three to four weeks. Tapers grow out gracefully, but the neckline softens in two weeks and the top loses its shape by week five or six.
Keep the top from looking heavy by getting a trim of about half an inch each visit. Use a light sea salt spray or matte paste only on the top, and wash product out at night so it does not build up. If you need ideas for the neighboring cut, our mid taper fade guide shows the version that sits slightly higher up the head.
If you can only fit in a quick visit, a line up and neck cleanup between full cuts keeps the taper looking fresh, and it takes about as long as a lunch order.
Book your taper at Deja Vu Barbershop in Murray Hill
Deja Vu Barbershop is at 101 E 34th St, New York, NY 10016, between Park Avenue and Lexington Avenue. The barbers are licensed in New York State, clean their tools between clients and work with the same honest pricing every time.
We are open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm and Sunday 10am to 5pm, closed Saturday. Walk ins are always welcome, and you can book online or call (212) 576-1062. Before you sit down, read the taper versus fade guide so you can say exactly what you want, check the classic scissor cuts if you prefer shears on top, or send us a note through our contact details.
Questions readers ask
Is an undercut with a taper fade good for thin hair?
It can work, as long as you leave enough length on top and keep product light. Heavy products flatten fine hair.
Should I use pomade or clay on a tapered undercut?
Clay or matte paste suits most hair for a natural, textured finish. Pomade gives shine and a slicked back finish for thicker hair.
Will a taper fade work with a receding hairline?
Yes. A taper keeps the sides neat and draws attention to shape rather than hairline. Ask your barber to keep the temples soft instead of sharp.
How short should the sides be for a taper?
Most clients choose a number 2 or 3 guard on the sides, with the neckline going shorter. Bring a photo if you are not sure.
Can I get a taper on curly hair?
Yes, the taper works well on curls because the sides stay neat while the top keeps its texture. Tell your barber how tight your curl is so they can blend correctly.