A high top fade is a flat, squared off column of hair on top with the sides and back faded short, so the contrast between the tall top and the tight sides becomes the whole look. It is a classic shape that rose to prominence in the 1980s and keeps coming back because it frames the face and adds height without any product.
The direct answer for the chair: you need about three to four inches of hair on top, a high or mid fade on the sides starting from skin or a number 1, and a barber who will shape the top into a clean flat plane. It works best on coily and tightly curled hair, and it needs a refresh every two to three weeks to stay crisp.
What is a high top fade?
It is two parts. The top is left long and shaped into a flat or gently rounded block that stands straight up. The sides and back are faded with clippers from short at the top of the fade to skin or very close at the bottom.
The fade is the difference between a high top and a plain high top shape. The blend turns an untidy transition into a deliberate frame. Most versions use a high fade so there is a lot of skin or short hair to contrast with the tall top. A mid or even a low version is possible when you want it less dramatic. The wider range of fade heights is explained in our guide to types of fade haircuts.
High top fade versus a regular high fade
A regular high fade can sit under a short top, a slick back or a quiff. The high top uses the same sides but builds the top up and squares it off. If you want the fade without the height, read our look at the high taper fade.
Who does a high top fade suit?
It suits men with coily, kinky or tightly curled hair, because those textures hold the shape upright on their own. Straight hair tends to fall over and needs a lot of product, so it is a poor match.
Face shape matters too. A high top adds height, so it balances a rounder or wider face and looks a little tall on a very long face. If you have an oval or square face, you can wear it with almost any fade height. A narrower face looks best with a gentle, slightly tapered top rather than a full square.
It is also a personality cut. In a Midtown office the top is usually kept shorter and softer. Many clients ask for a moderate version that reads smart in a shirt and tie and bolder at the weekend.
How do you ask your barber for a high top fade?
Say high top fade, give the fade height and the bottom, and describe how tall you want the top. The table below is a practical starting point.
| Part | What to say | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Top height | About three to four inches, flat | Squared off column |
| Fade height | High or mid | Strong or balanced contrast |
| Bottom of the fade | Skin or a number 1 | Clean base |
| Blend | Up to a number 2 or 3 | Smooth step to the top |
| Edges | Line up at the front and temples | Sharp frame |
Our fade haircut is $35, and you can add a line up for $18 if you want crisp edges. See the fade haircuts page for the full range of versions.
How much hair do you need to grow first?
Plan on about three to four inches on top for a standard high top. Less than that and the top will not stand up. More than that and it becomes a taller, more dramatic shape that needs regular shaping.
Hair grows about half an inch a month on average, so if you are starting from a short cut, expect several months. During the grow out, keep the sides faded and the neckline clean so the in between stage looks intentional. A taper or a mid fade with growing length on top is a good bridge. Our post on taper versus fade explains which to pick while you grow.
Do not let a barber trim the top short before you have decided. Tell them you are growing a high top and only want the edges and sides cleaned.
How do you style and care for a high top fade?
Keep it simple: moisturize, pick lightly, sleep on satin. Coily hair is dry by nature, and a tall top has more surface exposed, so moisture is the main job.
- Use a light moisturizer or leave in product on damp hair, a small amount.
- Pick the top upward with an afro pick or wide tooth comb to lift and even it out.
- Cover the hair with a satin cap or pillowcase overnight so the shape does not flatten.
- Avoid heavy grease. It weighs the top down and clogs the scalp.
If you see flaking or a lot of scalp irritation, mention it to your doctor or a dermatologist. A barber can shape the cut but cannot diagnose skin conditions.
Variations of the high top fade
The base cut has a few common versions. Each changes the mood without changing the idea.
Low or mid high top
The fade starts lower, so there is less skin and more hair on the sides. It looks more office friendly and grows out better.
Tapered high top
The top narrows gently toward the front rather than ending in a square. It looks softer and suits narrower faces.
High top with a beard
The fade runs straight into a beard so the sides flow from hair to jaw. We cover how that looks in our guide to the beard fade. The Classic Combo of fade plus beard is $48.
High top with a part or lines
A shaved part is a small detail that adds structure to the top. Ask your barber what they can do with the lengths you have before committing to a design.
How often should you refresh a high top fade?
Every two to three weeks for the sides and edges. The top can go longer, around four to six weeks, since it is meant to be tall. The sides are what lose the sharp contrast first.
If you are short on time, a quick line up between full visits keeps the front and temples sharp. Our line up and edge up service is $18 and fits easily into a lunch hour in Midtown. We also have the medium fade haircut ideas if you decide to dial the height down.
Book a high top fade at Deja Vu in Murray Hill
Deja Vu Barbershop is at 101 E 34th St, New York, NY 10016, between Park Avenue and Lexington Avenue. We are open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm and Sunday 10am to 5pm, closed Saturday. Walk ins are welcome and you can book online.
Every barber is New York State licensed and our tools are sanitized between clients. Call (212) 576-1062 or use our contact details, and read about the range of cuts in our fade types guide before you come in.
Questions readers ask
When did the high top fade come out?
The high top shape became widely popular in the 1980s and has returned in waves since. Modern versions use cleaner fades and softer tops.
Can any hair type get a high top fade?
It works best on coily and tightly curled hair that stands up on its own. Straight or fine hair usually falls over and needs heavy product.
How tall can a high top fade be?
Most are three to four inches, but it depends on your hair density and face shape. Your barber can tell you what your hair will hold.
Is a high top fade office appropriate?
A shorter, tapered version with a clean fade usually works well in a professional setting. Keep the edges sharp and the top neat.