The undercut versus no undercut decision is really about the sides. An undercut cuts them much shorter than the top. No undercut keeps the length more even from top to sides, shaped with scissors or a gentle taper.
Choose an undercut if you want contrast, quick mornings and do not mind a barber visit every 3 to 4 weeks. Choose no undercut if you want a softer outline and can stretch visits to 5 or 6 weeks. At Deja Vu both start at $35, with a fade haircut for the first and a classic scissor cut for the second.
What does no undercut actually look like?
It is the traditional men’s cut: sides and back follow the top in length, maybe tapered at the neckline and over the ears. The outline is soft and the hair moves as one piece.
That is the territory of our classic scissor cuts, where the barber works with scissors and comb instead of clippers. It reads as polished and a little conservative, which is why it is common in finance, law and consulting.
An undercut, by contrast, takes the sides down short and creates a contrast with the top. The shape is more graphic, and it also asks more of your schedule.
Undercut vs no undercut at a glance
| Undercut | No undercut | |
|---|---|---|
| Sides | Guard 1 to 3, faded or hard | Scissor length or guard 4 and up |
| Top | 3 to 5 inches | Any length |
| Visits | Every 3 to 4 weeks | Every 5 to 6 weeks |
| Style effort | Low to medium | Low |
| Look | Defined, modern | Soft, classic |
| Price at Deja Vu | $35 fade haircut | $35 classic scissor cut |
Price is the same, so the real cost is the frequency of visits.
Which one suits thin, thick or curly hair?
Thick hair gets heavy fast, so the undercut takes weight off the sides and keeps the head from looking wide. Curly hair can go either way: short sides with a curly top is a classic, and an even length shows the curl pattern.
Fine or thinning hair is the exception. Very short sides can make the top look thin by contrast. A softer shape without the undercut hides density loss better, and our notes on fades for men over 50 explain how to keep clean lines without pushing it.
If you are not sure, a taper is a halfway path: sides trimmed a little shorter without a hard contrast.
Cowlicks and crowns
A strong crown swirl fights very short sides, because the hair there points in several directions. A barber who reads the pattern will leave a little length where it needs to lie flat. This is one more reason to talk through the cut before the clippers come out.
Which is better for work and daily life?
Both work in an office. The decision is about how you want to read. A blended undercut looks sharp and current. A scissor cut looks established.
Gym goers and people who run in the morning often prefer the undercut because the sides stay cool and dry. Men who wear headphones, glasses or hats all day sometimes like more length at the sides to avoid visible hat lines. Think about your week, not just the mirror.
Commuters through Grand Central also tell us about humidity and hats. Short sides dry in minutes after a train ride, while longer sides pick up the weather and need a comb at the desk.
Our blended undercut guide shows how to keep the contrast subtle if you need it to be quiet.
How much maintenance does each need?
An undercut needs frequent visits. Short sides show regrowth within 2 weeks, and a clean neckline starts to blur around week 3. A line up and edge up at $18 buys you a couple of extra weeks.
No undercut grows out gracefully. The shape loses definition slowly, so most men get by with a cut every 5 or 6 weeks. If you hate scheduling, this is the lower stress option.
For the harder edged version, disconnected undercut versus a regular one explains why upkeep goes up when there is no blend.
Is the undercut still worth it?
For many men, yes. It has moved from a statement to a normal option. We look at that in whether undercuts are out of style, and it is worth a read if you are worried about looking dated.
If you are on the fence, ask for a trial: a number 3 on the sides with the top left alone. Hair grows back, and you can go shorter next time.
A good rule: if you feel nervous about the sides, keep them longer and tighten up next visit. Our barbers, with 15+ years of experience on the team, will say so if a shape will fight your hair.
What should you tell the barber?
For an undercut: sides at a number 2 or 3, faded or blended, top 3 to 4 inches. For no undercut: scissors over comb on the sides, a tidy taper at the neck, top to length.
Say how you part and style your hair, how often you plan to return, and whether you wear a beard. A short beard matches either shape and can be shaped alongside it, see the Classic Combo at $48 for fade plus beard.
Browse more options on our fade haircuts page for Murray Hill.
Visit Deja Vu in Murray Hill
Deja Vu Barbershop is at 101 E 34th St, New York, NY 10016, between Park Avenue and Lexington Avenue, about two minutes from the 6 train at 33rd Street. Walk ins are welcome, or reach the shop to book. Call (212) 576-1062. Closed Saturday, open Sunday 10am to 5pm.
See every cut on the classic scissor cuts menu if you are leaning toward no undercut.
Questions readers ask
Can I try an undercut and go back?
Yes. Hair grows about half an inch a month, so a number 3 on the sides blends back to a normal cut in a couple of months.
Does an undercut make thin hair look thinner?
It can, because the contrast highlights the top. Ask for a soft blend and a little length at the sides.
Is a scissor cut cheaper than an undercut?
At Deja Vu both the fade haircut and the classic scissor cut are $35. The saving with no undercut is fewer visits, not a lower price.
What if I want something in between?
Ask for a taper. It keeps the sides slightly shorter without a visible contrast.