The Van Dyke beard is the one that looks like you meant it. A pointed chin beard, a mustache on top and clean skin on the cheeks, it is the beard of a man with a reservation and a tailor. It is also one of the easiest beards to get wrong at home.
A Van Dyke beard is a goatee made of two separate pieces: a mustache that does not touch the chin beard, and a chin beard with a neat point or a rounded shape. Ask your barber for a Van Dyke with the cheeks shaved clean and the connection between the mustache and goatee cut open. It takes a beard trim and grooming visit at $18.
What is a Van Dyke beard?
It is a mustache plus a chin beard, with a gap between them and no hair on the cheeks. The mustache is usually trimmed neat or waxed slightly at the ends, and the chin beard is shaped to a point or a soft curve.
The two features are what separate it from a standard goatee. A goatee often joins the mustache around the mouth in a continuous ring. A Van Dyke leaves open skin on either side of the mouth, so the two pieces frame the lips instead of closing around them. That open line is the signature, and it needs to be sharp.
The Van Dyke has a long history as a gentleman’s beard, and it has come back in Manhattan with men who want a face that looks put together without the upkeep of a full beard. Because there is less hair to manage, a good trim every one to two weeks keeps it crisp. Expect to maintain three things: the mustache line along the lip, the gap on each side of the mouth and the point of the chin beard.
Common mistakes are leaving the gap too narrow, which turns it back into a goatee, and letting the cheek line creep up toward the ears. Mark the lines once with your barber, then trim just inside them at home. Bring a photo to the chair, because the width of the chin beard changes the whole look and is easy to misjudge.
It suits men who can grow a solid chin and upper lip, whatever the cheeks do. That makes it a good answer if your cheek hair is thin but the chin is thick. It is a defined, deliberate face, so it works best with a clean cut and a tidy neckline.
How to grow and shape a Van Dyke
Grow everything for four to six weeks first, then cut it down to shape. Trying to grow just the chin and lip from clean skin makes it hard to see what you are working with.
- Let the beard grow in for four to six weeks, with no trimming.
- Decide on the mustache width and the width of the chin beard.
- Shave the cheeks clean, keeping a straight line from the corner of the mouth down to the jaw.
- Cut the gap between the mustache and the chin beard, a half inch on either side of the mouth.
- Trim the chin beard to a point, and keep the length even.
- Clean the neck with a line just above the Adam’s apple.
Face shape guides the final proportions. Round faces get more length on the chin and a pointed finish, which lengthens the face. Long faces do better with a shorter chin beard. Square jawlines carry any version. Our guide on shaping a beard to your face shape explains the logic.
How do you style a black beard?
A black beard shows every edge and every gap, so it needs a cleaner line than a lighter one. The upside is that it holds a defined shape well, and a good Van Dyke looks sharp on dark hair.
Dark facial hair can look heavy against lighter skin, so trimming the cheeks and neck close matters. Wide, bushy cheeks on a dark beard look dense and hide the jaw. A crisp cheek line and a neat neckline do the opposite and show the structure of your face.
Keep the beard conditioned. Black coarse hair tends to be dry and wiry, which makes it look unkempt even when it is trimmed. A few drops of oil or a little balm at the end of the day softens it. Our beard balm guide covers how to choose and apply one.
Are mutton chops still a thing?
Mutton chops are sideburns grown long and connected down the jaw, with the chin and sometimes the mustache shaved clean. They are a bold look, and a small number of men wear them well.
They work if you have strong cheek growth and a confident jawline. They fail if you have thin sideburns, because patchy chops look like an oversight. Because the chin is bare, you need a firm jaw to hold the look.
The variation most men can wear is a shorter chop that meets a trimmed mustache. That is closer to a classic frame beard, and it keeps the neck and chin tidy. If you want to try it, start with cheek length and ask your barber how far down the jaw to take it. A clean neckline matters more here than anywhere. For the rule on where to stop, read the two finger rule for the neckline.
What to do about a patchy beard
Grow it out for at least six to eight weeks before you decide it is patchy. Many beards look uneven at three weeks and fill in over time, so give it a fair chance before you shave it off.
If the patches remain, change the shape instead of fighting the pattern. Patchy cheeks are exactly why the Van Dyke exists. Shave the cheeks clean, keep the chin and the lip, and the beard looks planned. A short, tight beard also hides gaps better than a long one, because long hair on the edges of a patch draws attention to the bare spot.
Beard oil does not grow hair, and a bottle will not fill a gap, as we explain in does beard oil help growth. It can make the hair you have look fuller and healthier, though. See a doctor if the patches appear suddenly or in round bald spots, since that can be a skin or health issue and not just genetics.
Is stubble a beard style?
Yes. Stubble is a short beard kept at one steady length, usually between one and three days of growth, trimmed with a clipper guard and kept sharp at the edges.
It is the lowest maintenance way to look groomed. You trim it every few days, keep the neckline defined and shave the cheek line so it does not drift. Stubble hides patchiness better than any other length. It also suits men who need to look sharp at work without committing to a full beard.
What turns stubble into a mess is a neckline that has wandered. Hold a clear line above the Adam’s apple and one on the cheeks. Our beard fade adds a gradual shape on the cheeks and neck, which makes stubble look refined. A line up at $18 keeps the edges honest.
Should you dye your beard?
Dye can cover early gray or even out a beard that is darker at the chin than at the cheeks. It is a personal call, and the most important rule is to avoid a flat, jet black color that looks painted on.
A beard dye should land one shade lighter than you think. Gray looks natural when it is blended rather than hidden. At the shop we offer men’s hair color at $55, and the approach is the same: soften the gray, keep some variation. If you are thinking about the beard, ask your barber in the chair before you buy a box, because the skin on the face is sensitive and a patch test matters.
Home dyes can irritate. If your skin has ever reacted to a hair product, check with a pharmacist or dermatologist first. Our guide to why a beard gets itchy covers the skin side of this.
Get your beard shaped at Deja Vu in Murray Hill
Beard trim and grooming at Deja Vu is $18, and the Classic Combo of a fade plus beard is $48. You can see the full list on our beard trim and grooming service. Bring a photo of the Van Dyke you want and tell us how you plan to wear it. Our barbers are New York State licensed, and every tool is cleaned between clients.
We are at 101 E 34th St, New York, NY 10016, between Park Avenue and Lexington Avenue. Open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm and Sunday 10am to 5pm, closed Saturday. Walk ins are welcome, and you can book your appointment ahead. Call (212) 576-1062. Add a hot towel shave for the cheeks at $35 if you want the cleanest base for the shape. Our beard grooming visit is the right place to start.
Questions readers ask
What are the different types of beard styles?
The main families are stubble, a short boxed beard, a full beard, the goatee, the Van Dyke, mutton chops and the chin strap. Each one is a different mix of length, cheek line and neckline.
How do I find the best beard style for my face?
Look at your face shape and your growth pattern. Round faces suit length at the chin, square faces suit almost anything, and thin cheeks suit the Van Dyke or a goatee.
Do beard styles affect how strong the jawline looks?
They do. A sharp cheek and neck line defines the jaw, while a fuller beard can soften it. A defined chin beard adds structure when the jaw is soft.
Which mustache styles work without a beard?
A trimmed natural mustache is the easiest to wear. A slightly longer version that covers the lip works if you keep the edges and the line along the upper lip clean.
How do I trim the different beard styles at home?
Use a guard for length, then trim the edges without a guard. Always work with the grain first, and clean the neckline last, just above the Adam’s apple.
Does Deja Vu offer packages for beard and haircut together?
Yes. The Classic Combo is a fade plus a beard for $48, and the Sharp Edge is a line up plus a beard for $30.