Beard styles come down to four decisions: how long, how full, where the cheeks and neck are cut, and how crisp the edges are. Once you know those four, a goatee, a short boxed beard, a monkey tail or an Italian beard are all variations on the same few moves, and you can ask for any of them with confidence.
The direct answer for the chair: pick a length in millimeters or a guard number, say where you want the cheek line, tell the barber where the neck line goes, and ask for the edges cleaned with a trimmer or razor. At Deja Vu Barbershop in Murray Hill a beard trim and grooming is $18. This guide walks through the major styles, the ones people search for most, and how trends from phones and playlists change what clients ask for.
What are the main beard styles?
The main beard styles are stubble, short boxed, full, goatee, anchor and chin strap, with variations named for their shapes. Each one is built from the same pieces: mustache, cheeks, chin and neckline.
| Style | Length | Face shape it helps | Upkeep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stubble | 1 to 3 mm | Most faces, softens a strong jaw | Trim weekly |
| Short boxed | 6 to 12 mm | Round and oval faces | Edges every 5 to 7 days |
| Full beard | 20 mm and up | Long or narrow faces | Shape every 2 to 3 weeks |
| Goatee | Chin and mustache only | Round faces, patchy cheeks | Weekly edges |
| Chin strap | Thin line along the jaw | Square faces | Needs a razor sharp edge |
The most useful rule is to let the beard balance the face. A round face wants a beard with a little length at the chin and trimmed cheeks. A long face wants more fullness at the sides and a shorter chin. A square face already has strong angles, so a softer neckline and slightly rounded edges help. We cover this in depth in our guide on how to shape a beard to your face shape.
Whatever you choose, the cheek line and the neckline matter more than the length. A clean edge makes a short beard look deliberate. A messy edge makes a full beard look tired. If you want the line sharpened in a single move, our beard trim and grooming service is built for exactly that.
What is a goatee beard?
A goatee is a beard grown only on the chin, usually joined to a mustache, with the cheeks and jaw kept clean shaven. It is one of the oldest beard shapes and still one of the easiest to keep tidy.
It works well for men with patchy cheek growth, since there is no need to fill in the sides. It also suits round faces, because a bit of length at the chin makes the face look longer. Variations include the circle beard, where the mustache and chin form a closed loop, and the extended goatee, which wraps further around the jaw.
How to ask for it
- Name the shape: “goatee, connected to the mustache” or “separate.”
- Give the length: “6 millimeters” or “number 2 guard.”
- Tell the barber how wide: “keep it to the corners of the mouth” is a good boundary.
- Ask for the cheeks to be shaved clean.
A goatee needs edges more than anything. A hot towel shave handles the cheeks and neck cleanly. Our two finger rule for the neckline tells you where the line should land when you maintain it at home.
What is a monkey tail beard?
A monkey tail beard is a slang name for a narrow strip of beard left long at the chin while the cheeks and jaw are kept short or clean, creating a tail shape that hangs down. It is a statement style and rarely seen in the office.
The look is bold: a clean face with a thin vertical strip of hair below the lip. Names for beard shapes vary from barber to barber, so a photo is the best way to explain it. If you want something close but easier to wear to work, a trimmed anchor beard or a short chin strip gives a similar shape with less of a statement.
It takes real care to look sharp. The strip needs even width, a straight line down the middle and clean edges where it meets the cheek. Thin growth at the chin shows up as gaps, so it works best with dense chin hair. Ask your barber to cut the strip in stages, since it is easy to cut it too narrow and impossible to put it back.
Our faded beard guide covers how a gradual fade into the cheeks can soften a bold shape like this, which helps if you want a style that is less abrupt.
What is an Italian beard?
An Italian beard is a well groomed, shaped beard with a defined cheek line, a sharp neckline and a mustache that is tidy and slightly separated from the rest. It is more about grooming than about length, so it can be short or medium.
The name is informal, and what clients picture varies. The common features are an even length of about 8 to 15 millimeters, crisp edges, a clean upper cheek line, and a chin that is slightly fuller than the sides. It pairs well with a tailored suit and a classic haircut, which is why it shows up around Midtown and Murray Hill.
The key work is in the edges. A trimmer or straight razor makes the cheek line and the neckline, and a hot towel steam softens the skin first. At Deja Vu, a beard trim and grooming is $18, and the Classic Combo, fade plus beard, is $48. The shave side of the shop is detailed in the hot towel shaves service, which many clients add for a smooth neck.
At home, a bit of balm keeps the beard soft and shapes the mustache. We wrote about the differences in how to use beard balm vs beard oil.
How does social media change beard styles?
Social media makes beard styles spread fast, shortens how long a trend lasts and pushes clients to bring in photos. A shape that was rare a year ago can be on every second client by the next season.
The effect on the chair is practical. Clients arrive with a screenshot, and the barber has to translate it for the client’s face and growth. A photo is helpful, but angles, lighting and filters can hide things like patchy areas and cowlicks. The best approach is to show the photo and describe three things in words: length, cheek line and neckline.
It also changes which styles are in fashion. Clean, sharp, short styles photograph well, so the boxed beard and the faded beard dominate feeds. Overlong, natural beards come and go with the season. Our own post on barber styles covers the broader set of looks the shop sees most often, so you can compare the beard trends with what is happening on the hair side.
The lesson from the chair is simple: a trend works when it suits your growth. If your beard is thin on the cheeks, a trend that needs full cheeks will not work, however well it photographs.
How does music change beard styles?
Music shapes beard fashion through the artists a generation looks up to, and each scene tends to have a signature look: the clean line up and short boxed beard in hip hop, the long full beard in folk and rock, the trimmed mustache and chin shape in Latin and jazz scenes.
That cultural link explains why some styles stay around for decades. The chin strap, the goatee and the line up have all cycled in and out of fashion with the music they were tied to, and then returned. When a scene is popular, more clients ask for its looks by name.
It is also why some beard names are slang rather than technical terms. Your barber may know three different names for the same shape, so use words about length and edges when you can. If you are unsure, ask your barber to show you a photo from the shop’s own work, and you can browse the gallery of recent cuts and beards to see how the shapes look on real clients.
How often should each beard style be trimmed?
Trim the edges every one to two weeks and have the whole beard reshaped every three to four weeks. Short beards show grow in fastest, since the contrast between skin and hair is higher.
The schedule depends on how crisp you want to be. A boxed beard with a sharp line needs edges every five to seven days. A full beard can go three weeks between shapings. Stubble looks best with a trimmer pass every two to three days, since it loses its look as soon as it gets too long.
Match it to your haircut schedule. Most clients get a haircut every three to four weeks, and the same visit works for the beard. See our guide on how often you should get a haircut, by style for the full timing. If you want the shape and the hair kept in sync, the Classic Combo, fade plus beard, is $48, and the Sharp Edge, line up plus beard, is $30. Both are listed on the packages list.
Book a beard trim in Murray Hill
Deja Vu Barbershop is at 101 E 34th St, New York, NY 10016, between Park Avenue and Lexington Avenue in Murray Hill. Call (212) 576-1062. We are open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm and Sunday 10am to 5pm, closed Saturday. Walk ins are always welcome, or you can book online for a set time.
A beard trim and grooming is $18, a hot towel shave is $35 and the Royal Treatment, royal shave plus beard, is $60. We serve Murray Hill, Kips Bay, Midtown East, Gramercy, NoMad and Turtle Bay, and the 6 train at 33rd Street and Park Avenue is about two minutes away. Start with our beard trim and grooming service and tell your barber which style you want.
Questions readers ask
How often should you trim popular beard styles?
Trim the edges every one to two weeks and reshape the whole beard every three to four weeks. Short styles need more frequent edging.
Which beard styles are easiest to maintain?
Stubble and the short boxed beard are the easiest, since they only need a trimmer pass and a clean neckline. A goatee is also simple because the cheeks are kept shaved.
What beard styles work best with patchy growth?
A goatee, a chin strap or a very short stubble look hides patchy cheeks. Letting the beard grow for a few weeks first shows where it fills in.
What are the trending beard styles this year?
Short boxed beards, faded beards and clean stubble with sharp edges are the most requested at the shop. Trends change, so bring a photo and describe the length.
How do I switch beard styles without fully shaving?
Ask your barber to reshape the existing beard in stages, starting with the cheek line and neckline. You can go shorter in steps and stop where you like it.
Are longer beard styles still in fashion?
Yes, though most clients keep them shaped and trimmed at the edges. A long beard with a clean neckline looks deliberate and holds up well at work.